Update 2009-12-08 22:10
Last week, I ordered a new power supply unit from ShopJimmy.com. It arrived on my doorstep last night. And tonight, I had the pleasure of installing it. I'm back in business!
The cause of failure for this monitor was due to a number of faulty electrolytic capacitors on the power supply circuit board. Notice the bulging and split caps of the capacitors in the following images.
Bulging or split caps are the telltale signs of failing or faulty electrolytic capacitors. What causes them to bulge and ultimately split is the buildup of hydrogen gas inside the capacitor; the result of an unstable electrolytic formula used in the manufacturing process. So many of these capacitors have made their way into the market place that this sort of issue is referred to as capacitor plague.
When electrical current is applied to a faulty electrolytic capacitor, the electrolyte becomes unstable and breaks down, releasing hydrogen atoms. As a result, the amount of charge a faulty capacitor can effectively hold is gradually reduced. Since a failing capacitor holds less of a charge, it also discharges faster. In the case of our monitors, we begin to see the effects of this as a flickering screen.
Temperature can also affect the performance of electrolytic capacitors. Imagine a bell curve: a capacitor will hold the most charge at its optimal operating temperature. Which is why a flickering screen may stop flickering after the monitor warms up.
The following walk-through will hopefully shed some light for anyone attempting to replace the power supply unit in their monitor. It's a delicate process, but with skill and care it can be done without damaging the unit.
Replacing the Power Supply Unit
Step 1: Find a clean, flat, and stable workspace with room to lay the display face down and to set aside any parts removed. It's important to remain organized throughout this process so that no parts are lost or broken. Good organization also keeps reassembly simple.
Step 2: If you haven't already done so, you'll need to remove the base stand. The stand is secured to the back of the display with four Philips screws.
Step 3: To remove the bezel, there are three Philips screws along the bottom edge that need to be removed first. With care, the front and back halves of the bezel can then be pried apart. The bezel is held together along the sides and top by a series of interlocking plastic clips. A small Flathead screwdriver can be helpful in prying apart and separating the two pieces, but can also mar and leave marks along the joining edge of both pieces.
It's best to start from the bottom and work your way up along the sides. Be sure to take care when prying loose the corner clips, as these can be problematic. I had difficulty with one of the corners, which to my misfortune lead to a portion of the corner clip being torn away.
Once separated, lift the back half of the bezel free and look over the system for any irregularities. Also, take this opportunity to dust. A blanket of dust only hinders heat dissipation.
The black plastic piece around the composite/s-video connectors in the image below is loosely attached, and can be removed and set aside for now.
Step 4: Next, we disconnect the two ribbon cables to the left of the composite/s-video connectors in the image below. Each of the ribbon cable connectors is secured with a clip. To release the connector clip and disconnect the ribbon cable, depress the tab on the top half of the connector and pull outward.
Be sure to release the securing clip when disconnecting each cable. At first, I didn't understand how these cables were secured. In my first attempt to disconnect the cable, I firmly pulled on the cable without depressing the tab on the connector and sheared the connector clip clean off.
Step 5: On the other side, there's a panel that needs to be removed in order to access and unplug the wires beneath. These wires lead to the Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamps (CCFLs) that illuminate the display, and are connected directly to the power supply unit being replaced.
The panel is held in place at four points. To remove the panel, gently slide the panel toward the outer edge of the display chassis, unhooking it from the two tabs circled below. Then lift slightly upward and away from the chassis, and slide the panel back away from the outer edge to unhook the other two securing tabs.
Step 6: With the panel removed, disconnect the four sets of wire connectors shown below in the same way the ribbon cables were disconnected. Be sure to depress the tab for each connector in order to release the securing clip when pulling outward to disconnect the wires.
Step 7: With the four sets of wires on the left and two ribbon cables on the right disconnected, the chassis housing the power supply is ready to be lifted off the display. The chassis is loosely fitted to the rear of the display. There is nothing securing the chassis to the screen. However, there is a batch of wires that connects the circuit boards in the chassis to the screen.
The sides of the chassis hug the display screen. Lift the chassis slightly upward off the back of the display to free it from the screen. Since the screen and circuit boards a connected toward the top of the screen, lift the bottom edge upward and flip the chassis over as if hinged to the display along the top edge. Be sure to place something beneath the chassis to give it support and relieve any stress on the connecting wires.
Step 8: There are three Philips screws securing the power supply unit in place, circled in the image below. There is also a small metal panel held in place by the upper-left screw circled below, that will need to be removed and set aside. The power supply unit can then be removed.
Step 9: The power supply unit is coupled to the main board. To disconnect the unit, depress the tab on the connector at the main board and pull the connector outward.
Step 10: Inspect both power supply units. The dimensions, mounting hole locations, and connectors should all be the same. In the image below, the new power supply unit is shown on the left, while the old faulty unit is on the right.
Just follow this walk-through in reverse order to put it all back together again.
Update 2011-01-17 14:27
Still going strong! Daily use includes a computer via DVI, a PlayStation®2 via S-video, and a PlayStation®3 via Component. Since the monitor speakers leave much to be desired, the audio output is passed through the monitor via the mini-phone jack on the front panel to either 2.1 Altec Lansing speakers or Sony wireless headphones.
After reviewing higher resolution photos of the two boards shown above, I have identified the following part and model numbers:
- Part No. of Replacement PS: BN44-00127B
- Model No. of Original PS: IP-58130A
58 comments:
Dude, I must say, you inspired me on this BIG TIME. A month after your misfortune, my 215TW died the same death. Only that web site that you bought the power supply from is out of stock. Bummer. But, thinking this could be simple capacitor plague, I went whole hog and bought $ 1.10 worth of new capacitors, to replace the puffy ones on the supply board. Bada bing! My 215TW looks right as rain. And I REALLY was helped out by the fact that you snapped photos of the disassembly. I should have, but didn't. Wasn't sure of the orientation of the ribbon cable going to the LCD, and your photo nailed it. Saved my bacon, mate. CHEERS and THANK YOU!
Drew
You're very welcome!
I'm very happy to hear it worked out for you! I plan to do the same with the board I removed. Now that I have a spare, I feel more comfortable going at it with a soldering iron. When I do, I'll post a follow-up walk-through with images detailing the repair process.
Thank you for sharing! Your efforts have inspired me as well.
Thanks to your detailed walk through of the repair, I was able to fix my 215TW. The replacement power supplies were sold out, so I bought some capacitors on Digikey. Toughest part of the repair was prying apart the top corners and top edge. THANK YOU!
Frank
See what we're saying? We're taking back these streets!! (Okay, we're merely fed-up victims of a poor-component monitor. But hell, we are fixing these monitors for under three American dollars. What else can I say?) These capacitors are swollen and very obvious. If yours are bad, please join the fight. A monkey can handle the soldering requirements here, although it may break several local labor laws, so solder these yourself. This flag will rise higher as more of you come to realize you are the victims of Samsung going 4 cents cheaper. We're right there behind ya... stand tall. It is very satisfying to fix something yourself that was otherwise heading for the rubbish bin. I, for one, LOVE this particular monitor. I think repairing it only brought me and the monitor closer.
I'm going to try to tackle this one myself as well. I've never played with a circuit board before, but have been longing to. What are the capacitors that I need to get? Thanks.
Get the capacitor specs off of the 5 smaller capacitors on your power supply board. (I ignored that huge one, didn't appear swollen on mine)
www.alliedelec.com
Cheap as chips, as they say, and a very easy solder job. 10 minutes, tops! Cheers
Done and Done! Thanks Radio Shack. It took me 30 minutes to replace all 5 Caps!
Jordan obviously has a VASTLY superior Radio Shack at his avail than I do. Mine are all about cell phones and remote control fluffy toys these days... SIGH...
Congrats on the cap replacement. Like I said, this is a slam dunk, even with ham hands.
I just used your guide to replace 5 caps in my large paperweight of a 215TW monitor. Tested the old caps and all were bad. Super easy to do and less than $5!
Wow! I didn't expect to see so many comments here. Awesome!
I'm really glad this walk through has helped so many people, and it's great to see everyone getting their irons out and replacing the bad caps on their boards. Still haven't had the chance to do so with mine. But you can be sure that when I do, I'll have the walk through posted here.
Thanks, everyone, for all of your comments and suggestions!
Same 215TW woes here....but the inverter transfomer itself is faulty, not the caps. Can't find the transformer itself anywhere. Note that the BN44-000127B is the newer version and has been discontinued by Samsung. The "A" version is older and has 750 volt output rather than the 900volt output of the "B" version.
Did the connector from the power supply board connect tot he logic board without re-wiring?
I also have the Samsung 215TW, my screen work, just there are about 10 vertical lines straight down the screen, each line is with different color, i use different input still see those line, those lines are also show up in the monitor main menu. without any input those line are also there. i have took the monitor appart and replace a few of the caps that look bad. and the lines are still there. Does anyone else have this problem? Thanks
Faulty Inverter/Transformer - The connection was made as-is, with no modification to the connector from the power supply board to the logic board. The old board came out; the new board went in. A higher voltage on the new model makes sense though, as it should reduce current keeping the board and components cooler.
Vertical Lines - I'm not sure what the source of this issue is. My guess would be with the liquid crystal matrix and its connection to the logic board, not the power supply.
Thanks for reply.
So you do think it's the cable that goes from the videoboard into the tft panel itself? I also though of the videoboard is bad. but just no way for me to test the tft panel, or the videoboard unless i could find another 215tw. Thanks though.
Not necessarily with the cable that connects the two, but where the TFT panel connects to leads around its edge. I had a cell phone once where the display stopped working. After taking it apart, cleaning the leads, and inserting a shim to ensure a solid connection between the LCD and the leads, the LCD display never failed to work again. A friend of mine has a Dell laptop with a similar issue you have, except the lines are much wider and appear as bands down the middle of his screen. After attaching a binder clip to apply pressure at the top edge of the screen where the band starts, he was able to get the band to go away and the display to function properly.
From these observations, I believe it may be a connection issue between the lead for problem pixel column on the TFT display, and the lead that routes to the connection cable.
My 215TW is dying too (startup times are doubling every week, first black, then flickers, then works) but I rather open it up once I have the parts needed, so I can still use it for the time being. My question therefore is, could anyone list the specs of the 5 caps needed and maybe suggest a brand too? Would be much appreciated.
In any case, awesome work on the descpription and pictures of the procedure to access the inner parts of this monitor. Will be very helpful soon.
Regards,
Jort
Here are the parts I ordered (a couple of extras, but basically look up the 5 smaller capacitors on your power supply board like in the blog photos...
www.alliedelec.com
Allied Stock # 613-0189
Mfr Part # 337CKE025M
Capacitor, Al Electrolytic; 330uF; 25VDC; +/-20%; Radial; 8.0mmDia.; 11.5mmL; 32VDC; -5
Allied Stock # 613-0939
Mfr Part # 827KXM025M
CAPACITOR; AL ELECTROLYTIC; CAP 820UF; TOL +-20%; RADIAL; 25V
Thanks for yours helps. I hope i will help me too. i will replace the following capacitors:
C302:CAPxon 25V,330uF Radial
C301:CAPxon 25V,330uF Radial
C110:CAPxon 25V,820uF Radial
C111:CAPxon 25V,820uF Radial
C112:CAPxon 25V,330uF Radial
The 2 820uF caps on my power supply look fine but the 3 330uF ones were bulging at the top. Did ppl find the 820uF caps needed replacing or only the 3 smaller ones. I am new to soldering but even so my issue is not with the soldering but with the de-soldering, I am finding that a bitch.
Here is the nice thing about this power board. Even with slim soldering skills, the caps are large enough that ou can pinch them between your thumb and finger on one side of the board, and just touch the iron to the solder points on the other, and just sort of "walk" the two legs out, side to side. And then do the opposite with the new caps, melt the solder, and shove the legs in carefully. So it right, and you'll need little if any new solder. Practice on some old clock radio, circuit board, or someone else's expensive electronics. Good luck!
Cheers mate, job done on the 3 330uf caps anyway. I did as you suggested and wriggled them out more than the conventional de-soldering methods one sees on youtube which makes it look awfull easy. Understanding this a little better I think my solder tips are badly oxidized. Anyway I am posting this on my back from the dead 215TW, thanks guys.
Thanks so much for your guide,
my 215tw began to flickering at start for 15 seconds before it works perfect. I wait two days before take my desision to changes the capacitors.
Now It works great.
3 x 330µF
2 x 1000µF (no 820µF available)
1 x 47µF
3€ only.
I just wanted to say thank you for all of the posts above. They've really convinced me to order my own set of capacitors and to grab my grandfather's soldering kit to fix this korean piece of excretion. But, and again a very hand tip, I'll practice on my old graphics card.
Thanks again!
Update on my previous comment. Just spend around about 10 dollars equivalent in Euro's on caps. I practiced soldering on an old graphics card I had lying around and quickly got the hang of it. Replaced all the caps on the power supply unit of my monitor. I'm currently writing this message on whilst using my samsung 215tw monitor, which again is full of life, and have saved a lot of money. To all those who think this is a hard replacement I can say that the repair takes about half an hour if you don't have any soldering experience like me and can me done by a monkey (like me).
Good Monkey! ^__^
Congrats, Alaingort, on joining the I-don't-need-to-spring-for-a-new-monitor-just-quite-yet-club" !!! Feels good to not put this nice monitor in the recycle bin, eh?
Of course, if this inexpensive fix doesn't work for everyone (you may, of course have some other issue with your 215TW not related to bad caps)... well then nature compels you to go out and grab a sexy new LED monitor. Just saying...
Just wanted to say thanks for your detailed description of the repair. It was immensely helpful as I repaired my 215tw. I love this monitor, but after this incident and seeing the thousands of other Samsung customers who are having the same problem.... SAMSUNG SUCKS!
They should've done the right thing and offered to repair this manufacturing defect instead of ignoring the problem and their customer's pleas for help.
But, thanks to you, I managed to repair my monitor for about $10 in supplies (capacitors and a couple of 'black sticks' to remove the bevel without doing any damage).
The hardest part was removing the damn bevel!
When I originally posted this article, I never expected to see such responsiveness. I want to thank everyone for all their comments and supportive input regarding this subject matter.
In the future, I plan to make a second walk through available; one that details how to replace bad capacitors in this unit. I'm trying to get my hands on a second faulty unit so I don't have to pull apart my first one again.
With regards to Samsung, I believe they are a reliable and reputable manufacturer. However, I also believe you get what you pay for, and that warranties serve as good indicators of what a product's expected life span will be. There is an old joke my first boss used to say, "Samsung is the Korean word for CRAP!" However, that was more than ten years ago. Having owned a number of Samsung goods myself, I've come to think differently and actually prefer Samsung products over most others offered in the marketplace. If there's one thing I can recommend when shopping around, it's that one chooses in favor of quality over cost.
The Samsung SyncMaster 215TW has offered one of the best pictures I have ever seen from both LCD and CRT monitors, putting even my Cintiq to shame. The design is versatile with a focus firmly set in functionality and usability. Aside from supporting a multitude of different input options, the design incorporates modularity of internal component groups. This isolates problem areas such as power supplies from sensitive areas like logic boards, making it easier and more cost effective to repair or replace components prone to failure -- as is apparently inevitable with model. Priced at $500 with a 3-year warranty, the unit's power supply failed three years after purchase. I'm pleased it was an easy and inexpensive fix.
Electrolytic capacitors seem to be the Achilles' heal of the electronics world.
Totally cogent post, wcoast... I agree 100% with your summary. I may have endured a bad capacitor situation with my monitor, but it was something that could have affected any manufacturer in any price range. That being said, I love my Samsung monitor (and television, hard drives, printer, and two cell phones in the past...)
I'd have to argue against Lunatic's overly-simplistic synopsis. I recently traded monitors with my wife, who has a lesser-grade Samsung 24" monitor.. and after two weeks decided to trade back. Not that the 24 wasn't nice, but I prefer the functionality of image of the 215TW still... and all the inputs! Samsung will get my business again on the monitor front.
You wouldn't happen to know the Part Number for the Power Supply by chance? ShopJimmy doesn't carry it any longer, but says they could find it if they know the part number.
Super THANK YOU for this page! I came across this over a month ago by google'ing for my beloved Samsung 215tw flickering. I couldn't get to it until last night. Finally 2 days ago the monitor started making a clicking noise and wouldn't even come up. 5 capacitor changes later, it works great!
There was no exact match on 330 uF at local Radio Shack, replaced them with 470 uF. That worked fine. And of course, 1000 uF instead of the original 820.
5 Caps for about $6. I had to also get a soldering kit, about $8 in Radio Shack.
Again, Thank You!
sands, I'm telling you. both the fix and the blog are hits right outta the park. ^__^
I love to hear these stories!
Aaron, I have a bad feeling that if you know your power supply is dead, it might be an easier path to treat yourself to a new, larger monitor. This PS has become a hen's tooth. Go get your 24" now, you have our blessing. Samsung, even! ^__^
My SyncMaster 215TW is crapping out on me, but I am way-too busy to get the thing fixed.. I'll have to print the steps & photos before the monitor shuts down for good. I can not say enough about this monitor (all good, of course), and about all ye helpful people in the same boat! Encouraging, at least. Will follow-up on this for sure.. Thanks all! Toronto signing out.
Aaron Hemmelgarn: Apologies for such a late response to your inquiry. It's been a busy couple of months for me. Reviewing the higher resolution photos of both boards, this is what I found. Hope it helps.
Model No. of Original PS: IP-58130A
Part No. of Replacement PS: BN44-00127B
Nemowho: Can't thank you enough for all your input. Much appreciated.
Toronto Guy: Best of luck to ya!
Awww feckit... Life is short. eCycle that 215TW, and go get a P2450H. We're on this earth a limited time, as was that excellent (but flawed) monitor. ^__^
(But still, replace the caps and keep it as an auxiliary monitor on something if it's not the whole board that's dead... hahaha!)
But is this seriously your primary gaming/working/porn-watching/creative monitor? Let the 215 go, my friends... and replace it as your primary. Do consider it sage advice. Cheers.
Samsung BX2331 is fluttering between $179 and $219 these days on NewEgg. That's 23" viewable, LED, and 2ms worth of monitor. Just got one in to replace the P2450 I referred to in my last (drunken) posting. Highly recommended if you are looking at anything past a few bucks worth of dead caps on your 215TW. The stand doesn't have all the gymnastics of the 215, but then most new monitors 22" or up no longer offer fancy-pants features on the built-in stands anyway. And if you were seriously using the 215's built-in speakers for anything other than extending a headphone jack up further on your desk... well, that's just sad. I do miss the Aux RCA inputs on the side and the PIP, but how often did I actually use them? Not very. Two HDMIs and VGA will have to suffice.
Cheers.
thanks very much for the tutorial man! i just brought back to life a super monitor. works like a charm now!
Very helpful - about to buy a new monitor, but you saved me some money.
One word of caution: after reassembling the power didn't come up. I disassambled and found that I didn't pushed the connector between the power and the main board hard enough. After that the monitor was working properly again.
Thanks very much!
Hello Samsung Syncmaster 215tw victims!
I had the same flickering problem, gradually worsening and found this post. Excellent work, photos also.
I replaced the 2 X 820uF with 1000uF at 50V plus the 1 X 330uF 25V that appeared with a fluffy top. Also precautionally I replaced the small 47uF 50V with an equal but better temp allowance that did not appeared damaged but is standing beside a transistor cooler, so I can expect exposal to higher temperatures. I put everything back, and my oldy 215tw is brand new!
Thanks allfor your contribution to thisd post!
I'd like to thank you and all other contributors in this post. Just replaced the capacitors and everything is working fine again. And BTW I was holding the soldering gun for the first time :-)
Hi, just wanted to say thanks for the instructions on how to change the capacitors. Instead of having to buy a new monitor, I now have a very neat image with my 215tw, and just for £5.
Does anyone have a part number list for the caps they used. Like Panasonic or other brand part numbers. Perhaps the Digikey item numbers.
Thanks
For replacement caps, I used:
820 uF: Panasonic EEUFC1E821S (height was OK but they were on the wide side; I still managed to fit them in though)
330 uF: EEUFR1E331 (perfect size)
(repair of July 2011)
Thanks very much for this blog, my 215tw died last month so I've been using a crappy old 17" 4:3. I'm off to maplin in the morning to buy a few capacitors in hope that I can revive it for a mere £1.19! You guys have actually convinced me that it's going to work!
Just out of interest, does anyone know of an equally flexible bigger monitor that has PiP, component and composite, along with HDMI and DVI/VGA?
Add me to the chorus of THANK YOUs!
My 215TW (manufactured October 2006) began flickering on startup a few days ago. So I googled and found this, including the great comments on DIY surgery :) Since I had nothing to lose anyhow, I thought I'd give it a try.
As you might guess, it worked!
I got Panasonic capacitors
3x 330µF, 25 V
2x 820µF, 35 V (no 25V available)
I also got a 47µF but with the wrong Voltage (needs to be 50V), but this capacitor wasn't damaged anyhow.
Disassembly wasn't hard with your instructions printed out.
I thought I broke some of the plastic clips that hold the frame together, but they are OK. They just make a snapping noise when prying the halves apart with a screwdriver.
I also pulled the cable that connects the screen to the mainboard. It's actually easier to remove than the cable that goes from the power supply to the mainboard. That cost me some nerve...
I had never done any soldering before, so I did practise a little bit beforehand. The de-soldering did take a long time and was an ugly affair... probably because I did it wrong ;)
I tried "walking" the two legs out like message4drew suggested, but it didn't work at first. The caps got to hot to touch. Only with the last one did it really go well. Should have practised more or read up wikipedia on (de)soldering...
The 820µF I had were nearly twice the diameter of the original ones (18mm instead of ~10)! But thanks to the long legs I managed to get them into place. Still, I'd recommend looking for thinner caps. Maybe get a 1000µF if those are slimmer.
I had removed most of the old solder. So I made more of a mess adding new solder. But most of the contacts are large enough that it doesn't matter how small or large your blob of solder is.
In the end, even with the scratchy mess I made of the circuit board, the operation was a success. The patient is alive and well :)
Thank you, everybody!
Interesting article and should I have any problems of this nature, this page will be my first port of call! I've had the monitor for 5 years now and the only issues I've had is a bleed of the lcd 'ink' when the unit runs very hot from the top left. I also have a slight fudge mark / patch just up of center, but very faint and others would be hard-pressed to see it. Overall a stunning monitor. Next will be an HP IPS, but hoping the TW has another 5 years, including a resurrection via the repair route mentioned in this article!
Makes me happy to see how many people have benefited from this article. Congratulations to everyone that managed to bring their monitor back from the dead! Thanks for posting.
Your article was helpful in disassembling my Samsung. Thanks! I replaced the capacitors and the screen is behaving as good as new.
For those who are in the UK, I got the capacitors off ebay for the fix:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320757680448
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320757680121
Total cost: £4.32
Thank you for so much for this post. Not only do you have the process for getting to the capacitors completely described, but the part numbers are discussed in the comments which I had no problem ordering. I fixed my flickering 215tw with ease having never repaired a PCB in my life.
Thanks again.
Mike in Nashville
My 215TW started flickering and is now taking a while to come on from black. I've been thinking about getting a larger monitor which I've ordered but don't have yet (Dell U2412M) but I want to fix this one too.
Someone in a previous post mentioned "black sticks" to help remove the bezel. Are these called "diddle sticks"? Can you pick these up at Radio Shack?
Another thanks for the great pics and information.
LOL... yes, "Diddle-sticks" are real, and not inherently a name you reserve for politicians.
https://www.budcocable.com/Detail/?ID=554
Radio Shack MAY (May) have something like them as soldering aids, but feel free to get creative with similar, hard plastic wedgy things if your are worried about cosmetic damage to your bezel. A sturdy credit card you aren't fond of, a pliable plastic picnic knife...actually a plastic putty knife in a narrow format works great. You get the idea, get creative. I actually have an ancient tool from Compaq, used to split open laptop monitor casings, and I'll never part with the dear thing.
My suggestion long-term for all your diddling, regardless of device:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G18402
(orders one today)
Thanks for the info. I have some old credit cards I could use but a little repair kit sounds like a good idea too.
A capacitor kit with the proper size and value capacitors is available here:
http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_33_68&products_id=196
Many, many thanks for the deassembly photos and walkthrough. I've never soldered anything significant before, and now with new caps my monitor is working great (for the last 10 minutes at least... fingers crossed!).
Just had to add my word of thanks as well. $12 in parts and I am once again using my SyncMaster 215 without issue. Thanks!
Add just wanted to add my thanks to you (the pictures and disassembly notes were a great help) and those who commented regarding the capacitors. For about $10 (mostly shipping) I was able to order some replacement capacitors and bring my 215TW back to life! I assumed it was the backlight so it had been sitting for over a year as I doubted it was worth sending out for repair. This was well worth it because the monitor was still in excellent shape otherwise. Plus, my kids and I had a fun and successful project!
I used 3 EEU-FR1E331B and 2 EEU-FR1E821B from mouser and it all went very smooth.
Thanks again!
Another success here! I had forgotten how good this monitor is until it sparked back into life. Mine had been sitting for a few months waiting for me to get round to it. Don't know why I put it off so long, it really is straight forward. Watch a few youtube vids on soldering, quick practice on an old board and voila! Many thanks for the article and to all for all the contributors for the information and inspiration.
Richard
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